Talk about going out with a bang! I couldn’t be happier with the way my final “Project 12” project turned out.
After scoping out various maternity patterns, I hit upon Jalie 2804. It isn’t a maternity pattern, but there is a link to Assorted Notions’ maternity version on the product page.
If found it difficult to splurge that much on a pattern (I’m used to $1 – $4 a pattern), but here were my thoughts.
- This is a great classic pattern with a lot of options – long, 3/4 length, short, and sleeveless, two lower bodice styles. It even includes a built-in “modesty panel” option!
- It includes 27 sizes, from 2-year-old girl to large woman. The pattern itself is printed on a heavy-weight paper and will not shred to pieces with lots of use. I can copy off different sizes and options as needed.
- It can be converted to maternity, or even a nursing top.
- Jalie patterns have consistently gotten rave reviews from those who use them. (Thanks for the recommendation Quixotic Pixels!)
After rationalizing the heck out of it, I purchased it through Pattern Review and I had it in my possession within less than a week of placing my order.
Pattern Modifications
I have never used a Jalie pattern before, but based on my current bust measurements I am a size “X”. To leave room for growth in this pregnancy, I bumped that up to size Y.
Once I traced off the correct size on tissue paper, I modified the pattern as follows.
- I added 1 inch to bottom hem all around. I have a long-ish torso and carry very low. At 25 weeks, I’m already struggling to keep my shirts covering my belly.
- I did the same “full tummy modification” to the lower bodice pieces that Assorted Notions did. I swung out the side 1.5 inches (adding about 3″ in width to the bottom hem). To do this, slash the pattern parallel to the fold line. Pivot out at the seam line until the correct width is added at the hem. Pivoting at the seam line preserves the original seam length and allows it to still attach easily to the upper bodice.
The original pattern is the yellow tissue and the green is the adjustments.
- After adding to the side seams, I brought down the center front hem 1 1/2″ (plus another 1″ in overall length). I wish I knew of a more precise way of redrawing the bottom hem curve. I just eye-balled it and it seemed to work out.
- I also swung out the bottom hem of the back just a half an inch (for a total of 1 inch). This is not a maternity adjustment, it is a Child Bearing Hips adjustment. 🙂 (Original pattern in light green, adjustments in dark)
I was pretty thrilled with the length of the sleeves and was pleasantly surprised that I didn’t have to lengthen them at all. Go, Jalie!
Assembly
I found a Cotton-Spandex Jersey blend at Joann’s. I was happy to move away from the rayon-spandex of my last two projects, plus the print was so fun! I realized as I was cutting it out that this was the first of my 12 projects that wasn’t a solid. The recommended 2 yards was just enough fabric even with my adjustments. I cut the modesty panel out of scrap rayon-spandex.
Be sure to test your stitch settings on scrap fabric before you begin. I tried out Jalie’s recommendations for sewing stretch fabrics without a serger, and I wasn’t terribly happy with the result. What worked for me was sewing the seams with a stretch stitch and overlocking the edges that were supposed to be zig-zagged with my serger.
My first attempt to attach the neckband was a real failure. The recommendation to stretch the neckband along the neck wasn’t very clear. I stretched it along the entirety of the neck and it left the chest puffy. I had to spend 45 minutes carefully pulling out the stretch stitches. Not fun. It worked much better to attach the neckband without stretching along the front (straight) edges and stretching to fit along only the back neckline. I’m glad I took the time to redo this.
Nit-Picky-ness
I found the upper bodice to be every so slightly baggy compared to the rest of the shirt. I could have gotten away with a size “X” chest. The size “Y” sleeves were a good fit and I am definitely not size “X” in my hips, in pregnancy or not.
If (When?) I make another of these tops, I think I will leave off the not-gathered under-layer of the lower bodice. I don’t think it is necessary for the construction, at least not for a maternity shirt. The bottom hem would probably lay smoother without it.
Exciting Things About This Project:
- Converting a shirt to maternity! I can’t believe it actually worked!
- Feeling like I’ve really hit my stride with working with knits. I really love using my glue-stick method for hemming knits.
- Using a print!
- Trying out a Jalie pattern. I’m now a convert. I would love to try more.
- Successful completion of my 2010 New Years Resolution!
CONGRATULATIONS!!! On a truly beautiful project! On completing your resolution! And on the terribly cute bump…
Also, I am very impressed with the engineering of the pattern you did. Very inspiring. Thank you. And I guess you get what you pay for with the Jalie pattern, eh? Good to know.
I know you will be a bit busy in 2011, but I hope we get to see a couple more projects for yourself.
Thanks, Beth! Sewing is very much a type of engineering, which is probably why it makes me so happy.
I don’t think I’ll be able to continue my monthly clothing projects through next year, but I hopefully will be able to make a few items for myself.
I love your fabric choice and I’m impressed with the pregnancy modifications. Wow. By the way, you look awesome!
Thanks, Leila.
This is just fabulous for so many reasons! Congrats on completing your resolution 🙂 The shirt is amazing… looks great, just like the mamma inside!! I would not have known you didn’t spend at least $50 on it 🙂 I am working on a drape-neck top which I converted to maternity (using the full tummy alteration thanks to your recommendation!). The fit is great except I decided that I must remove the sleeves (too big! ugh!) and work some magic on the armhole seams… I hope it ends up looking half as professional and a quarter as good as your Jalie 🙂 Nice job!! Can’t wait to see what other wonders you work in the next year (aside from the baby, of course!)!!!
PS ~ Do you have a walking foot for your sewing machine? I have been using mine for knit hems and it’s been pretty fantastic… just sayin’… if Andy needs one more gift for you…
I look forward to seeing your shirt! That’s a bummer about the sleeves. I compared the Jalie pattern to another maternity shirt I like and that was how I knew the fit would work.
And yes, I have a walking foot and they are very helpful with knits! It didn’t really seem necessary with this fabric though.
PPS ~ I love the photo of the side seam… it proves your pattern engineering was PERFECT… the seam is exactly in line! Amazing…
I’m so glad someone noticed! I was very pleased with it and was trying to explain to Andy why it was a big deal. It will most likely swing forward as the baby grows, but it certainly worked out nicely for this week. 🙂
Congrats on finishing your projects! What an accomplishment! 🙂
Gorgeous! Love the ruching! Really really fabulous, Jodi! Hope you had a great Christmas. 🙂